The Pub: The Ship Inn, Upper Framilode

The Walk: Stroudwater Canal & historic villages, 6 miles

This is a quieter corner of Gloucestershire, a world away from the Cotswold bustle just a few miles to the east. Here there are fewer tourists, more locals, and a steady trickle of canal enthusiasts, giving the area a distinctly different feel.

The route follows stretches of both the dormant Stroudwater Canal and the still-active Sharpness to Gloucester Canal, tracing a corridor of water, reeds and narrowboats. It’s easy, level walking - more tides, mudbanks and migrating birds rather than limestone hills and steep valleys on the other side of the M5.

The Ship Inn, set right on the old Stroudwater canal, once served the boatmen navigating their way to and from the Severn in the 1800s. It still feels closely tied to that working past, but is a destination food place now, and a hub for this small, river side community.

Tucked between Gloucester and Slimbridge, this is also an excellent bird-watching spot. On a good day you might hear/see Cetti’s warblers, greenfinches, sparrowhawks, and a constant movement of water birds across the wetlands. 

If you’re looking for a walk that reveals a different face of Gloucestershire — quieter, broader, and shaped by water — this one fully earns its place.

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About The Ship Inn

Last Visit: April 2026

In the late 18th century, Upper Framilode was a small but busy hub where the Stroudwater Canal met the tidal Severn — a place of trade, noise and constant movement. Barges once arrived here laden with coal, timber and grain, while Stroud’s famous cloth began its journey out to the wider world.

Today, that working past is quieter, but it still lingers in the line of the canal, the waterside buildings, and the subtle details along the towpath.

The Ship Inn positioned right on the canal would have been the social heart of this working waterfront.

Sitting at the exact point where the Stroudwater Canal met the tidal River Severn, it served the men who moved goods, managed tidal access, repaired boats, and kept this small but vital junction running.

This was a place where people lived by the water’s timetable — tides, currents, daylight and weather.

Picture the scene in the canal’s heyday: barges waited outside for the tide to turn, their crews stepping ashore for food, ale and warmth. The Ship’s back rooms were alive with the sounds of work: leather being hammered in the cobbler’s workshop, ropes drying by the fire, boots left by the door thick with river mud. Next door, The Bell (now closed) served the same trade, and Canal Row bustled with warehousing, sail‑storage and the handling of coal, grain and timber. 

Inside the pub was a working house, plain and purposeful, but full of life.

Today, The Ship is quieter, but the sense of place remains. It's laid out for food and has an excellent, well priced menu. 

The canal outside is softened by reeds and wildlife, yet the line of the old waterway is unmistakable. Volunteers have reopened a channel, revealing the shape of the canal as it once was. Mooring rings, coping stones and stone steps still sit where they always did, small reminders of the industry that shaped this corner.

The Ship leans proudly into its canal-side identity — and even though the waterway beside it has grown sleepy and overgrown, it’s still a fascinating place to wander. 

The Stroudwater Canal is now being painstakingly restored by volunteers, a project featured on BBC’s Countryfile. One day, the canal’s waters will once again reach this far western stretch, reconnecting The Ship to the navigation that built it.

Pub Key Information

WEBSITE https://www.theshipinnframilode.uk/
ADDRESS The Ship, Moor Street, Upper Framilode, Saul, GL2 7LH
PHONE 01452 764050
WHAT3WORDS ///guilty.pupils.skis
PARKING Large car park at the pub.
LOCATION Just outside Frampton on Severn. This bend in the River Severn is situated south of Gloucester, near the M5 junction 13 for Stroud. Access to Frampton (and then Saul/Upper Framilode) is via Frampton, which sits to the west of the M5 & A38.
HANDY FOR The Severn Way.

Walk Overview

This is a quiet and ancient part of the world.

The walk explores part of the Arlingham ‘peninsula’ that forms a horseshoe bend in the River Severn, opposite Newnham on the other bank.

It has a medieval feel to it, with some buildings as much as 800 years old. 

The river would have provided plenty of fish. Wool was the other ‘export’, sent to markets in Gloucester and Stroud via the canals that intersect at Saul.

They provide the backdrop to this lovely, level walk, and an opportunity to reflect on the significance of canals to our country's Industrial Revolution.

Walk Instructions: Choose what works for you

There are multiple ways to consume the route described below.

  • Either follow the online instructions, or download and print a copy of the route.
  • If you have the OS Maps app, you can follow a saved route directly in the App.
  • Or download the GPX file for use on your chosen GPS-based navigation application.

Walk Key Information

START/FINISH The Ship, Moor Street, Upper Framilode, Saul, GL2 7LH
PARKING Large car park at the pub.
GRID REFERENCE SO 751 100
WHAT3WORDS ///guilty.pupils.skis
DISTANCE/TIME 6 miles  / 9.6 km; approx 2 hours
ASCENT 70 feet / 22 metres
PATHS/TERRAIN Field paths, towpaths, quiet country lanes, some urban footpaths, woodland, and muddy banks of the Severn. Lots of gates & stiles. Some traffic to negotiate.
DIFFICULTY Easy, level walk. Short section on Severn Way is a bit muddy.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT Buses: from Stroud, the 242 or 65; from Gloucester, the 113; from Dursley, the X4.
TOILETS The Ship Inn; also at Saul Junction. The Bell, and on the green in Frampton on Severn.
OTHER PUBS TO VISIT On Frampton on Severn village green, The Bell is a landmark you’ll likely pass. At the other end of the green is The Three Horseshoes, worth a visit. The Red Lion in Arlingham is run by villagers.

Directions

  1. The tow path of the old Stroudwater canal is the start point, going left as you pass through a gate onto it from the pub car park. Follow this path for the first section of the walk, first crossing the quiet lane back to Saul, and continuing all the way to a ‘crossroads’ in the canal network, at Saul Junction.
  2. This is the only crossroads of two independent canals in the country, with the old Stroudwater canal intersecting the Sharpness & Gloucester Ship Canal. It gave local farmers and traders access to markets in Gloucester, as well as Stroud.
  3. At the junction, continue straight ahead over a footbridge past Junction Bridge House in front of you to follow the Stroudwater Canal for the next short section, to Walk Bridge. Note the volume of narrowboats in the marina to your right as you progress.
  4. Turn right at the Bridge to join a lane in the direction of Frampton. These lanes were quiet when I visited, but not entirely traffic free, so take care.
  5. As the road bends around to the left, a footpath sign on your right takes you into a field and guides you to the other side to a gate between the houses of Frampton.
  6. Emerge from the field, and cross the road in the housing estate, slightly right, to follow Ann Wicks Road. On the left-hand pavement, carry on until number 47! There’s a lane to the side just past it, into a parking area, and then to the right a footpath gate takes you into Frampton United FC’s ground.
  7. Ahead of you is the longest village green in England, with The Bell pub/hotel on the right. Continue past The Bell, the cricket pitch, village shop, past Top Shop House, and on until a footpath to the right-hand side of Manor Farm (note the magnificently restored 15th Century wool storage barn in the farmyward).
  8. This path leads over a short bridge before the path opens out. Your target is the field diagonally over to the right. The path through the field, shared with some disinterested horses, follows the brook until emerging onto the towpath of the Sharpness & Gloucester Canal.
  9. Turn right towards the bridge. Cross over the bridge and stay left on the Arlingham/Fretherne Road. Just past a cottage a footpath signpost takes you left up a stony drive. This is the Severn Way.
  10. You’re heading towards the River Severn now. I found this section to be characterised by poorly maintained stiles, and some route diversions, so take care. It’s a bit boggy under foot too, I imagine following particularly high tides on the Severn.
  11. Emerge from a short section of woodland over the worst of the stiles to follow a fence/hedge line. There’s a sewerage works on the other side. I left the Severn Way to rise up to the river embankment on the left, a much better route to the boggy ground I was on. The online version of the OS Map suggests a deviation too.
  12. Eventually coming to a drain, Hock Ditch, drop down to the right, before rejoining the embankment on the other side of the Ditch. Continue on the embankment until, after passing through a hedge, you turn immediately right along a field boundary; to emerge back onto Arlingham Road (we’re now further along the road from where we started, after the bridge. You could skip that River Severn section if I haven’t sold it to you in #10, #11 & #12!).
  13. At the road, turn right until St Mary the Virgin Church. Cross over to follow the lane past the hamlet of Fretherne. Continue to pass houses and farms, passing what looks like an old schoolhouse, and as the road bends to the right, just past a tumbledown cottage hidden in the overgrown hedge, take the footpath into the field.
  14. You’re heading in more or less a straight line from here back to the banks of the River Severn again. Follow the path through the first field to a gate into the next field. You’ll see a wooden fence and kiss gate on the other side of this second field, that’s your target.
  15. The footpath shares access with some cottages here. Walk through their wonderful willow arch to emerge onto the lane in front of the Severn.
  16. The route follows this lane to the right, and soon bends to the right, with a left-hand turn running off it. Take the left-hand turn.
  17. This lane passes houses either side and eventually leads up to a driveway into a lovely looking old house. The footpath is to the left of the gate, through a beech hedge. Once through this, you’ll soon be presented with multiple path options, at a stile/gate combination. Go left through the gate.
  18. Nearly there now. Back along the banks of the River Severn, follow until you pass St Peter’s Church. Continue to follow the lane past Forest View Cottage where it bears right onto Canal Row. Look for the canal towpath on the right-hand side.
  19. The Stroudwater Canal is overgrown here and blocked off now from the River Severn. Follow the towpath back to The Ship. I heard Willow Warblers, Cetti’s Warblers and Greenfinches here.

Notes

In the late 18th century, canals were the superhighways of their day, transforming how goods moved around Britain during the Industrial Revolution.

Opened in 1779, the Stroudwater Canal was built to connect the thriving woollen mills of Stroud with the River Severn. This link allowed locally produced cloth — including the area’s famous scarlet fabric — to reach wider national and international markets. In return, raw materials such as coal, timber and grain could be brought inland to support both industry and daily life.

Upper Framilode sat at a crucial junction where canal met tidal river.

Framilode Lock & Basin

The entrance to the Stroudwater Canal from the River Severn at Framilode was located near the mouth of the River Frome, which had long been a haven for trading vessels. 

Initially, there was just a lock that could be used by vessels around the time of high tide on most days. The Basin was added later.

To the east of the basin was a warehouse to the north and a house for the lock-keeper near the bridge. Near the river was a row of three cottages owned by the Stroudwater Company.

Framilode Lock

Vessels passed in and out of the lock around the time of high tide when the level of the river was high enough and there was no strong current in the river.

The lock keeper was expected to be on duty at those times to help the vessels in and out. When there were particularly low neap tides, loaded vessels could not pass, but someone still needed to be on duty in case of an emergency in the river.

The lock is now derelict at the end of a private garden.

Framilode Basin

The basin was built in the 1790s, partly paid for by the Thames & Severn Canal Co, to provide space for vessels bringing Newport coal to transship into local barges that could carry up to Brimscombe and beyond. Additionally, a warehouse was constructed beside the basin for storing dry cargo, although it appears that little such traffic developed.

The image shows the barge Irene waiting for the lock keeper to open the gates when the tide in the river reached the right level. She appears to be carrying a cargo of grain loaded at Sharpness for delivery to the mill at Lower Framilode, half a mile downriver.

Since 1954, this basin has been filled in, and the area has been converted into a private garden.

Before the arrival of the railways, waterways like the Stroudwater Navigation offered a reliable, efficient way to transport heavy cargo across long distances.

Source: Stroudwater History


The best pub walks are meant to be shared.

If you’ve followed this route, found a better path, got lost, uncovered a standout pint somewhere else, or simply have a story to tell, I’d be delighted to hear from you.

This site is as much about shared discoveries as it is about the walks themselves.

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