Cornwall is where pub walking turns 'elemental'. Out toward Land's End and the Penwith peninsula, granite moorland drops straight into the Atlantic, along paths that are properly old — drovers' tracks and mine workers' routes, worn in long before anyone called it a leisure activity. And all surrounded by the nationally recognised South West Coast Path.

Zennor is where this collection started. The Tinners Arms is said to date from the 13th century, built originally to house the stonemasons working on the church next door, and it's barely changed in spirit since. Since then the collection has spread the length of the county — out to Treen and the Logan Rock Inn, deep in Land's End's granite and sporting history; south to Porthleven and Ludgvan; and round to the softer, wooded creeks of the Helford and the Fal, where Helford's Shipwrights Arms and Flushing's Royal Standard sit, before the coast opens out again on the Roseland peninsula at Veryan.

It's a county where the coast does most of the talking, but the inland villages, creeks and estuaries — and their pubs — are just as worth finding. More to come as I work further into Cornwall. This is a growing collection, not the whole story.