The Red Lion, Peppard Common

Greys Court, exotic birds, hidden estates, two cricket grounds, a secretive woodland pub and a pint of Gunners Gold

The Red Lion-Peppard Common-Peppard Pub
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This is one of those pub walks where everything feels slightly more fulfilling than it first appears.

Starting from The Red Lion on Peppard Common, the route slips almost immediately into a quieter Oxfordshire: Dog Lane, woodland tracks and the Chiltern Way leading to the National Trust's Greys Court - a film location for Downton Abbey and Poirot -  with stretches that feel surprisingly remote given how close you are to Henley and Reading.

There’s a strong sense of contrast throughout. Managed landscapes and historic estates (including Sir David Bellamy's former home) sit behind hedges, fences and gates, while public paths thread past open commons, cricket pitches and scattered village greens. Wildlife adds its own moments of surprise too—a rose-ringed parakeet breaking the familiar soundtrack of woodland birdsong.

The return through Highmoor and back towards Peppard Common brings everything together: a hidden pub - The Rising Sun - in the trees, and more woodland paths that invite a little imagination about the history beneath your feet. It’s a walk built on variety, but also on discovery.

Peppard Cottage, familiar from Howards End, sits just a few doors from the pub — an uncanny nod to the way this walk moves between the private world of estates and the public life of the Common.

About The Red Lion, Peppard Common

Last visit: June 2026

The Red Lion occupies a prime position overlooking Peppard Common, making it one of those pubs that seems perfectly placed to welcome walkers. Tables at the front enjoy the sunshine, while a spacious garden provides a quieter retreat to the side.

It’s a pub that feels both well established, yet newly energised and its current popularity is obvious. After standing empty for two years, it was rescued and transformed by James Williamson and members of the Laithwaite family, whose experience includes Laithwaite's Wines and The Brown Dog in Barnes.

So successful has the revival been that further expansion is now underway, adding additional dining and function space to the rear. Great to see!

Inside, the building retains all the warmth you’d expect of a rural pub: low, timber beams, fireplaces and a sense of age that hasn’t been polished away. Pictures of doggy regulars cover the walls.

My pint of Gunners Gold came from Loose Cannon Brewery in Abingdon, part of the same wider Oxfordshire network connected to the pub’s owners. The beer is named in memory of Abingdon local, Stan Bradford DFM, a Lancaster bomber gunner who served with 57 Squadron during the Second World War.

It’s a small but meaningful example of how this pub draws on regional ties, not just in ownership and food, but in the stories behind what it serves. 

And there are plenty of stories: the Red Lion has always had a front‑row seat to whatever drama the Common decided to host — pack‑horse traffic grinding up from Henley, smugglers slipping through the trees, and the occasional outbreak of organised mayhem on the green - The Peppard Revels (see Notes below).

They replay the Revels on special occasions: I'll definitely add it to the diary, an opportunity to be a participant in the life of the village, as the Red Lion continues to be, thanks to its new owners!

Gunners Gold at The Red Lion, Peppard Common
Red Lion frontage, Peppard Common
Pub Garden, The Red Lion, Peppard Common
Bar & dining at The Red Lion, Peppard Common

Pub Key Information

WEBSITE https://www.theredlionpub.uk
ADDRESS Peppard Common, Rotherfield Peppard, Henley-on-Thames RG9 5LB
PHONE 01491 756561
WHAT3WORDS ///dancer.yards.snail
PARKING Parking on the common in front of the pub
LOCATION Peppard Common is on the B481 Reading to Watlington road, slightly north of Sonning, West of Henley.
HANDY FOR Chiltern Way; Greys Court (National Trust)

Walk Overview

Leaving Peppard Common, the route settles into deep woodland and old Oxfordshire lanes that guide you towards the National Trust's Greys Court — Domesday‑recorded, Grade I listed, and once embellished in the hope of attracting a royal visit from Elizabeth I.

Its medieval tower and castle‑style flourishes sit in a landscape on this walk where every curve of woodland and every hidden farm hints at the long interplay between estate design and the trading routes that passed the Red Lion.

It’s a walk that feels richer the more you look, as if the estate’s careful grandeur and Peppard Common’s old revelry still trade glances across the woods — one world screened behind fences, the other still open to anyone who wanders through.

National Trust Greys Court
Dog Lane, Rotherfield Peppard
Rose Cottage, Dog Lane, Peppard Common
Greys Green Cricket Pitch
Greys Court National Trust
Views from Greys Court
Greys Court flying the Union Jack
Conifers in Earl's Wood, near Greys Court
Rose-ringed parakeet
The Rising Sun, Witheridge Hill, Highmoor Cross
Rose Farm on Rocky Lane
Peppard Cottage from Howard's End movie
Views of Bear Wood near Witheridge Hill from Highmoor

Walk Instructions: Choose what works for you

There are multiple ways to consume the route described below.

  • Either follow the online instructions, or download and print a copy of the route.
  • If you have the OS Maps app, you can follow a saved route directly in the App.
  • Or download the GPX file for use on your chosen GPS-based navigation application.
Walk elevation-Peppard Common

Walk Key Information

START/FINISH The Red Lion, Peppard Common, Rotherfield Peppard, Henley-on-Thames RG9 5LB. 01491 756561
PARKING Parking on the common in front of the pub.
GRID REFERENCE SU 709 819
WHAT3WORDS ///dancer.yards.snail
DISTANCE/TIME 7.2 miles  / 11.5 km; approx 3.5 hours
ASCENT 600 feet / 190 metres
PATHS/TERRAIN Soft-under-foot forest paths; stony wooded trails; quiet lanes; fields. Some gates.
DIFFICULTY Easy to moderate.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT Buses from Reading town centre to Peppard Common.
TOILETS The Red Lion; Greys Court; The Rising Sun at Highmoor Cross.
OTHER PUBS TO VISIT The Rising Sun at Highmoor Cross is on the route. It's closed on Wednesdays. Most pubs in the area are excellent, and apparently doing well, with strong beer selections and foody reputations. The Unicorn on Kingwood Common; The Maltsters at Rotherfield Greys has just reopened; The Black Horse at Checkendon has a historic pub interior, so worth seeking out.

Directions

  1. Turn left from the Red Lion on Colliers Lane. At the main road, cross to the small parking/turning area to take a path to the side of Daisy Cottage - Dog Lane. There are some superb period cottages at the top of this lane. Follow this wooded path all the way until you reach a tarmac lane with footpath direction markers before it. Take the path to the left, the Chiltern Way.
  2. Follow this long, straight-ish wooded path until it reaches the road. We're heading to the right, but there's an extension to the Chiltern Way across the road to avoid following the verge on the right. Cross to take the short trail that winds through the woods, to emerge onto a gravel drive, in front of a property called The Lodge.
  3. You'll soon arrive at Greys Green cricket pitch. Follow the boundary on the left towards the pavilion. To the right of it is the path which takes you through woods, downhill to a gate into fields, then on towards Greys Court.
  4. Pick up the tarmac drive uphill towards the front of the house and explore. The house is to the left, but the path we need is straight ahead on this drive - through the main entrance/exit area near the car park.
  5. Turn into the car park and make your way to the rear, along the left hand side. You'll see a grassy track leading off along a fence towards a gate. Head that way and through that gate. (I wondered if the sloping grassy area on the right was an overflow car park).
  6. The path is waymarked. Transition from one side of a fence to the other, through a gate. And soon, at a small bridge, follow the path to the left, into the woods briefly . This is where I saw the parakeet!
  7. The path now emerges into a field, with the path clear. Make your way across, and beyond the next field over a lane. You're heading for the conifer woods ahead, with signs to lead the way.
  8. This is called Famous Copse. At the first opportunity, turn left. There are a number of path options, they combine later. I took the right hand way, and eventually arrived at downhill section where a short section of wooden bar fence offered some route choices. Stay to the right of the fence downhill.
  9. At the bottom, at a crossroads of walking paths, follow the blue markers straight ahead. Once wide woodland paths now narrow as the route heads uphill on what looks like a water channel. It was dry when I did it, likely a stream after wet weather. It's only a short uphill burst, up to a lane called Rocky Lane. There are some interesting places lurking behind gates along this lane, including the mysterious Rocky Lane Farm.
  10. Continue straight on for some time, until the lane noticeably bends to the left, in front of a driveway. Look closely and you'll see a footpath on the left heading into woodland as you stand looking up that driveway.
  11. The path leads into a grassy field and on to conifer woods, curiously called 'Scotland'. After 100m in the woods, turn left, then continue straight ahead, all the way until you meet a B road - the B481 - at the entrance to Highmoor village. You'll likely have heard the traffic! Cross over carefully, to follow signs for Witheridge Hill.
  12. This path takes you onto the second cricket pitch of the day. Follow the boundary on the left, keeping your eyes peeled for the waymarked path on the left, in line with the side of the pitch - probably Point or Backward Point, in the deep!
  13. The path again is clear, running now to the side of a brick construction to emerge onto a gravel drive. Continue straight ahead on this gravel track. You'll pass a derelict house on your left, then through a kiss gate into grassland, and the continuation of the path at the rear of some garden sheds before joining a lane.
  14. We're heading up the road immediately ahead, signposted The Rising Sun, which is off to the left across a small village green at the top of the short uphill.
  15. The next leg of our journey is straight ahead on this road. As soon as it starts to head downhill there's an entrance to the Manor on the left. Look on the verge on the right as you look at the driveway, there's a well concealed path into the woodland. Follow this down to the road below. It's the road we crossed earlier when heading uphill to The Rising Sun.
  16. Turn left here for c.200m, past a house called Beech Hollow. As the road curves to the left, you'll see a footpath sign into the woods on the Beech Hollow side of the road.
  17. You'll soon see that it'll take you into a large woodland. There are footpath markers that look a little confusing: follow the level path to the left, running alongside a broken down wire fence.
  18. The way from here follows this route straight ahead for quite some time along wide woodland paths. Note the green fencing on your left hand side - it's the private garden and woods of Satwell House, where Sir David Bellamy once lived. It's now owned by the founder of the Dreams bedding empire.
  19. Stay straight ahead on the run back to Peppard Common. You'll eventually meet Colliers Lane, with a small parking area before it. The lane leads uphill and around to the Common. I took an un-signposted uphill footpath through the trees up to the left before the lane to avoid any traffic. It emerges onto Colliers Lane close to the famous Peppard Cottage (Howards End), then onto The Red Lion.

Notes - The Peppard Revels

For centuries, Peppard Common was not just a green but a stage, and the Red Lion sat at its edge like a grandstand seat. Long before the village acquired its modern quietness, the Common was the beating, brawling, laughing, occasionally lawless heart of local life — and the Revels were its annual eruption.

Origins: a frontier settlement with its own rules

Rotherfield Peppard lay just beyond the easy reach of the sheriffs and beadles of the river towns. This liminal position — high ground between Henley and Goring, threaded by pack‑horse routes and woodland tracks — made it a natural gathering place for travellers, traders, drovers, bargees avoiding Reading’s tolls, and the occasional smuggler with a keg of tax‑free spirits.

In such places, custom often trumped law, and communal festivities grew with a freedom that more tightly governed parishes could only envy.

The Revels were part of a much older English tradition of midsummer fairs, wakes, and games — but in Peppard they developed a reputation all their own.

The Revels at their height: organised chaos on the Common

Every summer, for hundreds of years, Peppard’s Top Common transformed into a riotous carnival ground. The Revels were not genteel fêtes; they were full‑blooded, physical, communal spectacles that blurred the line between sport, ritual, and outright mayhem.

1. Mass football matches

The centrepiece was the legendary 100‑a‑side football matches between rival pub teams. These were not the codified games of today but the medieval variety: no fixed pitch, few rules, and no shortage of bruises. The Red Lion’s vantage point made it the perfect place to watch the chaos unfold — or to retreat to when the enthusiasm of the crowd became too much.

2. Cudgel fighting

Cudgel play — a test of strength, nerve, and occasionally dental resilience — was another staple. Two men faced off with short ash sticks, each trying to “break the head” with a clean blow that drew blood. It was both sport and spectacle, drawing crowds who cheered on local champions. The churches eventually intervened, deeming it too violent, but not before it had become woven into the folklore of the Common.

3. The bear pit

Bear‑baiting was a once‑common rural entertainment in which a tethered bear was set upon by trained dogs, with crowds gathering to watch, wager, and cheer. It was part sport, part spectacle, and entirely of its time — a rougher age when the Common doubled as an arena. Peppard’s bear pit, still visible in front of the Red Lion, is a rare surviving reminder of those early betting days, before the practice was outlawed in the 19th century.

4. Drinking, trading, courting, feasting

Around these headline events swirled the rest of the Revels: ale tents, food stalls, travelling performers, impromptu contests, and the kind of social mixing that only a rural fair could produce. For many, it was the highlight of the year — a chance to meet neighbours, rivals, sweethearts, and strangers from the road.

Decline and transformation

Victorian respectability eventually smoothed the rougher edges of the Revels — cudgels discouraged, bears outlawed, and football finally resembling a sport rather than a skirmish. Yet one custom refused to die: the drinking, flirting and feasting that have always animated the Common. I guess the centuries change the costumes, but not the choreography.

In their place came more “seemly” pursuits. A 9‑hole golf course was laid out across Top and Lower Common, with the Red Lion serving as clubhouse — a remarkable shift from cudgels to clubs in the space of a generation. This course thrived until the Second World War, when the RAF requisitioned the Common for wartime use.

Modern revivals: echoes of the old spirit

The Revels never disappeared entirely. They resurfaced for the Millennium celebrations in 2000, drawing villagers back to the Common in a spirit that would have felt familiar to their medieval predecessors.

More recently, during the Platinum Jubilee, the Common once again filled with around a thousand revellers, feasting, drinking, and celebrating in front of the Red Lion — a moment when the centuries briefly folded in on themselves.

These modern gatherings are apparently gentler, more family‑friendly, and mercifully free of cudgels and bear pits, but they carry the same communal energy that defined the Revels of old.


The best pub walks are meant to be shared.

If you’ve followed this route, found a better path, got lost, uncovered a standout pint somewhere else, or simply have a story to tell, I’d be delighted to hear from you.

This site is as much about shared discoveries as it is about the walks themselves.

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