Cornwall is where pub walking turns 'elemental'. Out toward Land's End and the Penwith peninsula, granite moorland drops straight into the Atlantic, along paths that are properly old — drovers' tracks and mine workers' routes, worn in long before anyone called it a leisure activity. And all surrounded by the nationally recognised South West Coast Path.

Zennor is where this collection starts. The Tinners Arms is said to date from the 13th century, built originally to house the stonemasons working on the church next door, and it's barely changed in spirit since. A fitting first entry for a county where the coast does most of the talking, but the inland villages — and their pubs — are just as worth finding.

More to come as I work further into Cornwall. This is the beginning, not the whole story.