Exmoor 'Must Do': Tarr Steps, 7.5 miles
This beautiful, well signposted walk follows the Two Moors Way along the banks of the River Barle in Exmoor National Park to the famous Tarr Steps.
This iconic and protected stone clapper bridge—believed to date back to the 10th century and the longest of its kind in the UK—stands in a landscape of tranquil nature reserves.
Crossing Tarr Steps, the route continues along the Exe Valley Way, leading across peaceful fields of sheep towards Withypool Hill and offering a wonderful taste of the natural beauty that makes Exmoor so special.
Keep an eye out for Kingfishers & Dippers, Deer & Sheep.
And Exmoor's largest gin collection.
The Pub: The Royal Oak, Withypool
Last visit: April 2025
This warm and welcoming village pub was once owned by a member of MI6, Maxwell Knight, who was the inspiration of Ian Fleming's character 'M' in the James Bond books.
And it's certainly served a few famous people over the past 300 years.
R D Blackmore, the English novelist, is said to have written part of Lorna Donne at The Royal Oak. Having spent much of his childhood in the lush and pastoral "Doone Country" of Exmoor, Blackmore came to love the very countryside he immortalised in his book.
However, his preferred passion was horticulture apparently, so we'll gloss over the fact that he likely took more pride in growing swedes at home in Teddington than he did in writing Lorna Doone here.
More recently the pub hosted Dwight D Eisenhower who was then in the midst of preparations for the D-Day landings, with extensive training taking place at Saunton Sands, Woolacombe, and the sand dunes of Braunton Burrows, not too far away in neighbouring Devon.
A letter hangs in the bar from Dwight recording his thanks for the stay.
The pub itself has two bars and a restaurant, serves a range of local ales and has the best gin collection on Exmoor, maybe even in all of Somerset. There are bedrooms over two floors, dogs welcome throughout, and a pop up bar in the car park in summer, a success originating from the necessities of covid times.
Hopefully the photos here give you a sense of what it's like - a warm, cosy pub that gets busy with a combination of sheep farming locals and tourists, so book if you're intending to eat, which I'd recommend you do!
Pub Information
| WEBSITE | https://royaloakwithypool.co.uk/ |
| ADDRESS | Sparrow Lane, Withypool, Minehead, Somerset, TA24 7QP |
| PHONE | 01643 831506 |
| WHAT3WORDS | ///equality.condition.safari |
| PARKING | To the side of the pub and in the lane. There's an outdoor bar in the summer months that takes some of the parking space. |
| LOCATION | Withypool is one of the 'honeypot' villages on Exmoor. It lies south of Exford and to the West of the A396 Tiverton to Minehead road. |
| HANDY FOR | Withypool sits on the Two Moors Way and is part of the Somerset section of the Exe Valley Way. It's a great village base to explore Exmoor more widely. |
The Walk: Quick View
There are multiple ways to consume the route described below.
- Either follow the online instructions, or download and print a copy of the route.
- If you have the OS Maps app, you can follow a saved route directly in the App.
- Or download the GPX file for use on your chosen GPS-based navigation application.
Walk Information
| START/FINISH | Royal Oak, Sparrow Lane, Withypool, TA24 7QP. 01643 831506 |
| PARKING | To the side of the pub and in the lane. There's an outdoor bar in the summer months that takes some of the parking space. |
| GRID REFERENCE | SS 847 356 |
| WHAT3WORDS | ///equality.condition.safari |
| DISTANCE/TIME | 7.5 miles / 12 km; approx 3 hours |
| ASCENT | 900 feet / 275 metres |
| PATHS/TERRAIN | Well signposted with a number of stiles, gates and footbridges. Grassy tracks and river bank paths, quiet lanes and field paths. |
| DIFFICULTY | Moderate – easy to Tarr Steps, some determined up hills to return. |
| PUBLIC TRANSPORT | None that I could confirm. Some websites suggest a 198 Bus visits from Minehead, but the 198’s timetable itself suggests not. |
| TOILETS | As well as the Royal Oak, there are toilets in the village near Withypool Bridge, and parking close by too. Also at Tarr Farm Inn, at Tarr Steps; and a public convenience 400m up the lane. |
| OTHER PUBS TO VISIT | Tarr Farm Inn at Tarr Steps. The Royal Oak, Winsford is fabulous; also try The White Horse Inn, Exford. It’s also worth noting that there’s an excellent tea rooms and village shop in Withypool. |
Overview
You can reach Withypool from the A396, either following the A39 via Dunster to the North, or Tiverton and the A361 to the South.
Withypool is a charming Exmoor National Park village set beside the winding River Barle, perfectly placed for a walk to Tarr Steps.
Tarr Steps is an iconic ancient clapper bridge spanning the river, formed from massive stone slabs. The bridge is widely believed to date back to the 10th century.
Surrounded by nature reserves this spot is one of the most atmospheric and photographed landmarks on Exmoor.
Directions
- Looking at the front of the pub, follow downhill to the right on the lane through the village, heading East in the direction of Winsford. You’ll soon leave the village and the road quickly rises steeply. It’ll be over soon!
- After a third of a mile you’ll see the finger markers guiding you over a stile to “Footpath Tarr Steps 4”, as shown in one of the walk images. “MW” is a reference to the Moors Way.
- From here the journey is straightforward, following established paths through woodland, then fields and river bank paths, with some crossing point options to the other bank along the way. As long as you follow the River Barle you’ll reach Tarr Steps!
- While you’re here, pay a visit to the Tarr Farm Inn, just 50 metres away from the bridge.
- It can get busy here, not surprising given that Tarr Steps is one of the key locations to visit in Exmoor. So while you’ve likely seen few people on your walk to this point, things change (there is a lane down to Tarr Steps from the B3223 at Winsford Hill, via Liscombe, and a public car park c.350m above the Tarr Farm Inn).
- Now head over the clapper bridge onto the lane and almost immediately look out for a public footpath on your right which rises quite steeply up the hillside on a narrow track – the Exe Valley Way.
- This narrow track does a zig zag as it enters fields. You’ll follow waymarked paths through fields from here, initially steeply uphill before finding more level ground in a few fields time.
- As you approach Parsonage Farm at ///maximum.fires.warms footpath options are either straight on through the farm, or right to follow a farm track uphill. Turn right here, continuing on the Exe Valley Way.
- You’ll likely be sharing fields with sheep as the path levels out again, before starting to descend to the side of Westwater Farm to your right hand side. There’s a gate that brings you to the road, before the farm.
- Turn right as you join the road, and follow it round some bends, uphill on your way back towards Withypool. You have about 1 ½ miles to go from here, with the first ½ mile up this hill which is called Worth Lane.
- The road levels out with safe walking on the verge now. If you’re inclined, Withypool Hill is on your left, a 160 feet / 50 metre climb. Otherwise, follow the road to eventually start a descent into the village.
- Admire Landacre Bridge as you cross the River Barle again. This medieval bridge is a listed monument.
- Don’t overindulge at the tea rooms, now on your right. It’s a short walk through the village to the finish at The Royal Oak, where your righteous pint awaits.
Notes
Tarr Steps is a 17-span clapper bridge (derived from the Latin 'claperius', meaning 'pile of stones') and is constructed entirely from large stone slabs and boulders.
It’s the longest of its kind in Britain. It was first mentioned in Tudor times but may be much older. In times of flood the bridge has had to be repaired several times as stones of up to two tonnes have been washed up to 50 metres downstream.
The name 'Tarr' is thought to be derived from the Celtic word 'tochar', meaning 'causeway'.
It's only because the local sedimentary rocks form such suitable slabs that it was built at all.
At 59 yards (54m), Tarr Steps is by far the longest of the 40 or so clapper bridges left in Britain.
The best pub walks are meant to be shared.
If you’ve followed this route, found a better path, got lost, uncovered a standout pint somewhere else, or simply have a story to tell, I’d be delighted to hear from you.
This site is as much about shared discoveries as it is about the walks themselves.
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