The Pub: The Boat Inn, Penallt

The Walk: Finding Wye Valley Puddingstones, 3 miles

There are countless fine walks in the Wye Valley, but this one has a story to follow.

Around the village of Penallt, the wooded slopes once supported a thriving millstone industry. Hundreds of years ago, generations of Penallt craftsmen shaped great circular stones from the local “Puddingstone”—a hard, quartz-rich rock ideal for grinding. While millstones traditionally processed corn (to flour), in this part of the valley they were central to something more distinctive: cider-making.

The hillsides were thick with orchards. Most farms pressed their own apples, using the heavy stone wheels—often weighing over half a ton—turned by horse. Cider was used to pay farm workers; babies were baptized in it; and apples were buried in graveyards to feed the dead!

This walk traces that landscape. It’s short in miles, but a steep climb up and out of the valley is a challenge. Look closely for clues of the lost trade as you take regular breathers.

And it starts and ends at a fabulous old pub you could easily miss.

Driving along the A466 on the English side, you’d have little idea it’s there. But cross the footbridge at Redbrook, step into Wales, and you’ll find The Boat Inn tucked against the riverbank—where a well-earned pint of local cider neatly completes the story you’ve just walked.

Rating: 0 stars
0 votes

About The Boat Inn

Last visited: April 2026

I've been here a few times over the years, a reward for many a walk in the area. Another riverside pub? Hardly! Today I'm going to explore the past by following the 'Puddingstone and Pubs Trail' that sets off from the door. So I'm considering how this place might once have looked.

The building itself—The Boat Inn—has been here since the 1600s, its stone walls and two low rooms offering shelter then much as they do now. But look beyond the tables and the garden, and you can begin to picture the world this pub once served.

Across the water at Redbrook, furnaces and forges once drew a constant stream of workers, in tin and copper. On this side, all the way up to the village of Penallt behind me, orchards covered the slopes and stonemasons shaped great Puddingstone wheels for the cider presses that everyone seemed to own. Between the two ran the river—not a boundary, but a busy route—crossed by ferry, worked by boatmen, and alive with trade. Twenty different ferries stopped here once, some to take the puddingstoness down river.

Come closer, as Dylan Thomas might say! Imagine the movement: the creak of timber boats, the scrape of stone, the murmur of voices at the water’s edge. Imagine, too, the end of a long day—men crossing the river, or coming down from the hills, the thirsty finding their way here.

It doesn’t take much to suppose that cider flowed as freely then as it does now. The pub serves it straight from the cask, local vintages, plus a selection from St Briavels over the river, Frome, Pontypridd and Hereford.

And when you step inside, or take a seat in the garden above the river, there’s a sense that not much has really changed. The purpose feels the same: a place to pause, to meet, and to raise a drink. You'll have earned it for the hill up to Penallt alone.

Pub Key Information

WEBSITE https://theboatinnpenalt.co.uk/
ADDRESS Lone Lane, Penallt, Monmouth, NP25 4AJ
PHONE 01600 712615
WHAT3WORDS ///notifying.fans.witty
PARKING Redbrook. The car park is on the England side of the River Wye. There are two car parks either side of the playing field in Redbrook, which is easily identified along the A466. The smaller car park is pay by coins. The larger car park is PayByPhone app.
LOCATION The A466 follows the Wye Valley between Monmouth & Chepstow, crossing between Wales & England half way along. Aim for Redbrook, on the English side, at the Monmouth end of the A466, and cross the river to the Welsh side via a footbridge.
HANDY FOR Wye Valley Walk; Offa's Dyke Path; Forest of Dean.

Walk Overview

There’s a summary of this walk on the wall of the pub outside.

Generations of craftsmen made Puddingstones from the local quartz rock and supplied farms for miles around. They crushed corn into flour, and apples into cider.

It’s believed the last was made in the 1920’s, ending a craft that had lasted for centuries.

This walk initially follows the River Wye before ascending to the village of Penallt, through Prisk Wood where hidden quarries were the source of the stones.

See how many you can spot in the houses you pass and watch out for the amazing human size wooden carvings in woodland on Upper Ferry Road, close to the end of the walk.

Walk Instructions: Choose what works for you

There are multiple ways to consume the route described below.

  • Either follow the online instructions, or download and print a copy of the route.
  • If you have the OS Maps app, you can follow a saved route directly in the App.
  • Or download the GPX file for use on your chosen GPS-based navigation application.

Walk Key Information

START/FINISH The car park in Redbrook. See below. A footbridge crosses the river to the Welsh side, where The Boat Inn can be found. The crossing is off a path to the side of the playing field.
PARKING Redbrook. The car park is on the England side of the River Wye. There are two car parks either side of the playing field in Redbrook, which is easily identified along the A466. The smaller car park is pay by coins. The larger car park is PayByPhone app.
GRID REFERENCE SO 536 099
WHAT3WORDS ///elders.regulates.conquest
DISTANCE/TIME 3.3 miles  / 5.3 km; approx 2 hours
ASCENT 700 feet / 250 metres
PATHS/TERRAIN Grassy track along the river. Some muddy steps. Quiet country lanes and fields. Gates, no stiles.
DIFFICULTY Moderate. See elevation profile – this is a short-ish walk but is ‘up and down’, with a pretty steep section at the start of the up.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT Served by the Chepstow to Monmouth bus, #69. The walk could be started at Penallt, with parking at The Bush Inn. Penallt is served by a separate Chepstow to Monmouth service, #65.
TOILETS The Boat Inn. The Bush Inn is at the halfway point, but opening times are infrequent currently.
OTHER PUBS TO VISIT The walk passes The Bush Inn, in Penallt village. Please support the new tenants there. The Lion Inn, Trellech; The George Inn, St Briavels.

Directions

  1. Cross the footbridge over the River Wye, from England to Wales! It’s adjacent to the old railway bridge and can be found off a path at the back of the Redbrook playing fields. The Boat Inn is in front of you.
  2. As you look at the River Wye from the Boat, you’ll see a footpath sign guiding you underneath the old railway bridge, to the right, heading downstream. This is the Wye Valley Walk.
  3. Shortly after a log cabin set just off the footpath, at multiple choice footpath marker, head away from the Wye Valley Walk now, to make your way ‘inland’ through a gap in the hedge.
  4. As you pass through, you’ll see a steep concrete path heading upwards towards a house. Take this, and before the gate to the house, you’ll see an even steeper path+steps climbing the hill to the left.
  5. This walk is 50% uphill and 50% downhill, with the steepest uphill section now right in front of you. The route at the top takes you through some dwellings, before joining Lone Lane at a house gate.
  6. Follow Lone Lane uphill, all the way up to a crossroads in Penallt village, with options for Monmouth and The Narth. Turn right.
  7. A bus stop sign shows this road is serviced by Newport Bus connecting Monmouth and Chepstow, the #65 running a limited service every couple of hours. Note the ‘Inn’ sign, which is the direction we’re heading!
  8. At the memorial, bear right towards the Inn. This is the Bush Inn, which has recently been taken over my new tenants. It has limited opening times currently but the tenants hope to expand hours this year. It looks a great spot, so try to coordinate a visit while it’s open.
  9. In front of The Bush is the village green. Follow the lane ahead across the green, and onto a gravel track by a farmyard entrance, passing The Bush to your right.
  10. We’re heading into an area owned and managed by the Gwent Wildlife Trust, including Pentwyn Farm ahead. Continue on this gravel lane as it curves around to the right (ignoring footpath signs to left).
  11. Through a gate marked Wyeswood Common and into a field – Coronation Meadow. Follow the hedge on your right all the way down the meadow, to a gate leading to a track between field hedges. Good views ahead.
  12. Follow the signs now into the next meadow to a gate and diagonally left to a boundary fence into the back of the garden of a house. Don’t worry, this is the public footpath, signposted all the way.
  13. Across the garden, you drop down onto a lane. Turn right, downhill. At the first houses, take a track downhill next to the entrance to a house called Clearwater Cottage. It’s quite narrow, and evidence of a favourite path for scrambler bikes when I visited.
  14. It emerges onto a lane at a multi-lane junction. Cross to take Upper Ferry Road downhill. I spied the road name on a yellow gritter bin!
  15. As you descend, look out for the wood carvings on the left in the trees, depicting men working on the creation of a milling wheel. Fabulous.
  16. Continue downhill past a junction to your left. Just beyond, look for a sign into the woodland on your right – ‘not suitable for motorcycles’ apparently. Take it.
  17. You’ll arrive on the lane that takes you back to the pub.

The best pub walks are meant to be shared.

If you’ve followed this route, found a better path, got lost, uncovered a standout pint somewhere else, or simply have a story to tell, I’d be delighted to hear from you.

This site is as much about shared discoveries as it is about the walks themselves.

Add comment

Comments

There are no comments yet.